| What we have found is that vehicles using all of the breather mods available combined with the "divorced" style downpipes, where the turbine discharge flow and wastegate discharge flows are separated, there is high probability of boost creep. The easiest solution is simply to remove the divider block in the downpipe flange where it attaches to the turbine housing. This will allow the wastegate's discharge to experience far less backpressure and prevent creep. Profile is up to date. Already spoke with Greg regarding this prior to installing my SZ 3" DP's. Separator has been removed. If your boost pressure is reaching this 18psi target somewhere around 4000RPM and then holding there, this is an entirely different problem. This could be caused by an improper wastegate calibration. Pretty sure this is exactly what's happening. It's DEFINITELY not peaking at high RPM's. I should have stated that I don't have a mechanical boost gauge set up yet. Will do this in the next tests. I'm using the values from my boost controller which in my TT proved to be accurate When the term "Cracking pressure" is used, this is referring to the condition where there is just enough pressure applied to the actuator where you can just begin to spin the wastegate valve with your fingers. This is how we have them set What you should do in this case is simply bypass the solenoid. Use a small length of hose to connect your pressure signal hose to your actuator hoses. This will eliminate the solenoid from the equation. When the weather cooperates, I'll disconnect the N.O. and Com from the boost solenoid, and connect them to each other. My vacuum/boost line runs are relatively short and equal
 1993 TT. R.I.P. 09.15.2010
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